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43 Comments
Really great video. There are far too many slightly irresponsible videos on this topic online, including from some very well known climbers. This is great content.
I like this guy
My Fingerboard will arrive tomorrow! Really curious how more finger strength will affect my climbing.
Incredibly useful as ever, I love the focus on avoiding injury – it makes me comfortable trying new exercises.
If I’m bouldering and doing fb at the same sesh, what should go first? Is it better to fb before climbing or after?
Thanks for a very useful information)
What is your opinion on using rubber bands for assistance?
Brilliant video and instruction for us beginners thanks
This is really super useful! Thank you!
great info as always, just a couple questions.
1. what’s the best warm up before doing this?
2. do you recommend this before/during/after a typical climbing session?
What am i doing wrong if im slipping out of holds? I dont feel like im at my limit whilst training
If you've got golfers elbow in both elbows and hangboarding makes it quite painful, would you recommend hangboarding but keeping your shoulders fully engaged so it takes pressure off the joints?
my middle finger feels so messed up like it aches and hurts when I touch it. I mainly only use the jugs and the deep pocket on the second level (for my board)
would you recommend doing it on climbing days (before climbing i would guess) or on non-climbing days?
PLEASE can we have a subscription option to unlock more of the app? I appreciate that coaching is your bread and butter, but I'll never buy a bespoke course, I'd gladly pay a few quid a month every month though
hey dude I'm not a pro at finger boarding but I can do 3 flips on it you don't have to do an exercise.You just practice makes perfect.
Thank you so much! Just started today and desperately needed help! Can't wait to record the progress, slowly but surely and safely
Great explanations! Thanks bro
I was wondering if you could comment on this: I recently saw a video by Emil Abrahamsson where he suggested a light, twice-a-day workout could be really good for your finger strength/health, but that's in contrast to your twice a week recommendation. Do you think what he's suggesting might have value, or could it be dangerous?
This video should be posted at every climbing gym ever. Beginners and intermediate climbers can benefit from waiter learning this or using this as a refresher. Thanks Lattice 🙂
Y'all are putting out incredible content on this channel. Extremely informative. Far and away the best instructional channel for climbing that I've come across. Cheers
Just to check my understanding – you're saying do eitherthe max hangs or repeaters in a session, not both?
I've noticed that i can hang quitte comfortably from the small bottom edge of the beastmaker 2000 with some extra weight.. however this is in a open hand position and in the half-crimp position i can't hold body weight… Do you guys have any good advice? should I start training specificly for half-crimp? for some extra info: my maximum boulder grade is around 7a(+) and have been bouldering for about ~2 years
Will you guys ever consider doing an advanced routine?
Amazing Video! Keep ‘em coming!!!
What's the reasoning behind the 2 minute rest between max hangs? Is it just a matter of keeping the workout to a more managable length? I tried that protocol for a few months, but found it just isn't enough time for full recovery between sets for me. Since moving to a 3-4 minute rest I've gotten better gains – it's allowed for a higher intensity while maintaining form, and so an overall higher quality workout. Thanks!
Thanks for a great video. 1) If I’m climbing 3 days a week, and adding 1 day of max hangs, is it best to fingerboard on the first of the 2 off days or the second? For example, climbing Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday—better to fingerboard on Friday or Saturday? 2) Is it also possible to add it in the morning on the same day as a lower intensity or endurance climbing session in the evening? Been climbing for 2 years and have done some fingerboarding already. Appreciate any advice, you guys are awesome!
Should the advice on half crimp position be modified for someone with hypermobile DIP joints?
I keep getting injured on a fingerboard. I think I roll my middle finger slightly when I’m putting them down on the edge and it puts a lot of pressure on the side of the middle joint on my middle finger…. 😕
If you were going to do a grease the groove method, what warmup would you recommend?
Great video guys! Used the Crimped app to find out my max hang on the 20mm edge of the Beastmaker 2000 is 78,3kg BW+45kg added weight.
Is there gonna be an intermediate hangboard video coming aswell, 'cause I really need to know what protocals to follow for improving the finger strenght.
Thanks for the usefull video's!❤️
I want an audiobook read by Ollie
What's the problem with the thumbs up. Since you mentioned it specifically? My half crimb position is almost always with thumbs up…can this create stress in the thumb muscle?
Amazing guide! I'm forwarding this to my new to climbing friend.
Hummm the grip names are a bit off
– full crimp is over extended (over 90 degrees) fingers, doesn't matter if the thumb is over or not as that's not what, in itself causes the increased tissue risk. In fact you can even find one particular study that showed that the thumb actually helped stabilize the whole grip, making it less risky (at an equal angle) The more you deviate from 90 degrees, the more forces get exponentially bigger.
– chisel is like a half crimp but where your index drops straight instead (sometimes it does it if your grip is tired but I think it's a legitimate grip in itself depending on your finger lengths) so, what you called open crimp I guess
In spite of my previous comment, I still have one big question. When you talk about half crimping, which of those positions would you recommend in the following picture? https://i.ibb.co/GTq3Qb4/halfcrimp.png
1 stresses the muscles a lot,
2 stresse the tendons a lot.
Maybe right in the middle? Thanks!
Ver very veeeery informative, thanks! Even though I don't consider myself a beginner anymore, I learned a whole bunch. Especially regarding the different grips, why/when to train different grips or not. I started my fingerboard journey with a 4 fingers open hand, because it naturaly came ot me and I didn't know much.
As a result, I became really unbalanced: way stronger open hand than in full crimp. I guess it's time for me to go back to underloading myself, into half crimp training!
For true beginners, don't stress if the half crimp doesn't make sense or you are unable to do it. I thought my hands were weird, but after a few weeks I could manage just fine.
It's often hailed as the best, and I do prefer it now, but it was a bit demotivating to start off not being able to do that.
Full crimp on a fingerboard still feels weird to me, as if my thumb is too short. Not that I would want to do that, I don't think it actually adds to your training? It's just to give you a little more strength, but I'd save it for climbs that matter. Training is for training.
I'll have to watch out for over-stressing I guess, I typically keep on going to failure. Most apps have such punishing exercises by default that I can't imagine any beginner completing them. The beastmaker app 6a (which for some reason doesn't mean you should be able to do 6a, there is no relation as they say) is brutal with 12-14 minutes of hangtime, including 2 finger pocket hangs. I had to change the default 7/3 to 6/4 to manage it.
I've been looking into this as a beginner recently, so a very well timed video. Do the people over at Lattice have any opinions about density hangs? I had read that they were a good way to build up tendon strength
I started training at home two months ago because the gyms are closed in germany and I guess I just didn't do anything right. I did epeaters and max hang with too little rest periods. I did them five times a week. I think all of them would be classified as failed, because my hands start opening or slipping. I have edges that are about 40mm, 30mm and 20mm but they are at an 10°-20° downward angle. I haven't taken of any of my bodyweight and with a really cramped bodyposition I always tried cheating my way through.
All the other strength training was going great. Thank you for the video, maybe there is still hope for my tendons.
What are those wood holds he's demonstrating on and where can I purchase them
The index finger straight with middle two crimped is called the chisel.
Look at the shape the fingers make and compare it to a woodwork chisel.
Is that the new wide boyz free standing wall in the background?
As a beginner would you recommended fingerboarding (Beatmaker 1000) as an alternative to the climbing gym. As the gyms are closed, I don't climb at a high grade and regularly hear people claiming you shouldn't fingerboard as a beginner?